Now that you have refiled the system with fluid the rod will have become firm holding the lever in whatever place it rested. It's held firm by the slave push rod and since you have bled the system the rod and or lever have become dislodged. This is all assuming that the lever has fallen out of its resting place and only you know if you moved it when bleeding. The video that Ian has posted is fairly clear of how easy the lever falls out. Thanks for reading thus far.! Replies gratefully received. Sincere apologies for the long post, but I'd really appreciate some pointers here. Then there are the 3 fuses / relays ? on the ECU trayĪgain, can anyone let me know what they are for?
#HONDA S2000 CLUTCH BLEEDER PLUS#
There are 2 fuses (Red and Yellow) beside my flasher relay (see picture) plus another relay shown at the bottom of the photo. I've cecked and swapped out the most obvious fuses ( ie the fuel pump, main engine and engine ignition) but no joy. This is Problem 2 : Some fuse or relay has blown, the ECU is goosed or a wire has come loose? Video of ticking sound here 2_zpsba0ldsdf.mp4 No fuel pump prime noise for 4 seconds or so, and just a ticking at the ECU end of the dashboard. Next turn of the key and there was nothing. I know that sounds daft but that's what it felt like. I can only describe my instinct that the clutch was grabbing on and stopping the flywheel from spinning. I rebled the clutch with wife helping at the pedal end, just to be sure it wasn't air in the system but it was no better. I've looked at the system on-line at the S2Ki forums etc and understand how it all should work, but the clutch operation is PROBLEM 1. In my limited knowledge of the S2000 engine/gearbox operation, I think somehow the clutch fork / throw out bearing have "moved" or become seperated somehow. It sort of pushes 75% down then stops (well sort of the range of travel it used to have). Used gravity method and ensured that the reservoir was always topped up.įast forward to this morning and the clutch pedal feels really wrong. Everything all seemed to line up (slave cylinder rod and fork cup recess) so I just bled the clutch. Now, when I was under the car I did waggle the clutch fork a little and was a bit concerned how loose it was. Started the car again and similar rattle so turned it back off.ĭid a bit of googling over a cup of tea and my research led me to the clutch fork /throw out bearing as the potential source of the rattle.
Oil pressure was fine (same as pre-service anyway) no obvious leaks anywhere. The car started forst time, but I shut it off within seconds because of a strange rattle coming from engine. So far so good.īy mid-morning I came to the point of pushing car out of the garae and warming up to temperature, both to check for oil sump/filter leaks etc and also to begin the Dash2 calibration of the Oil temp. Simple spade connector at the sump end, special pin needed for the multiplug connector at the Dash2 end. So, this morning I set to wiring the Oil Temp sender to the Dash2 connector (as discussed elsewhere
I also installed my VDO Oil Temp sender in place of the Oil Sump plug during the oil change. So, over the last couple of weeks I've undertaken my normal annual service Įngine Oil and oil filter change ( Valvoline SynPower Fully Synthetic oil 5w/40) K&N Oil filterĭiff Fluid change (Fuchs Titan Gear Hypoid 90 GL5 spec) Last year did about 4k miles, trouble free. I have 2 problems, but they must be related.Ī little background: My car is the S2000 demo car bought from the factory in summer of 2013. Hopefully someone can point me in the right direction here, it's been a very frustrating day in the garage.
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